Conn said:
OEM oil filters are cheaper than aftermarket ones, at least for my car (21’ Mazda3).
OEM doesn’t always mean best.
Agreed. GM had an issue with their OEM filters for Silverados a few years ago. I’ve always used Wix filters with 5k oil changes and haven’t had any issues.
I don’t like Fram filters, they are known for having weak outer shells. You can’t go wrong with Wix or OEM filters. For oil, be careful of low-speed pre-ignition on direct injection engines. Some engines burn oil, which can lead to pre-ignition, especially in high-compression or turbocharged engines. This is less of an issue in engines that don’t burn oil. Some oils have additives that help prevent LSPI. If you have a high-compression, direct-injected, and turbocharged car, I’d suggest Mobile 1, Liqui Moly, Amsoil, or Motul. Just make sure it meets the standards to prevent LSPI.
EJames said:
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Fram’s higher-end filters are pretty good.
EJames said:
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Fram’s higher-end filters are pretty good.
True, the cheaper ‘orange cans of death’ are not great, but their higher-end synthetic filters are fine (just don’t use them for 25,000 miles!).
Get the filter from the dealer. Switch to 5w-30. The only reason manufacturers use thinner oil is to meet fuel economy numbers. Get a good name-brand oil. Also, change your oil twice as often as the owner’s manual suggests. Especially with Kia/Hyundai, their engines fail often.
@Brooke
Agreed on 5w-30. It reduces engine noise.
The best oil, but choose 5w-30 for a quieter engine and better protection.